Find his original page for this design here--scroll to the bottom of the page....
|FADSRITW Prototype. No LazerTran front Panel Art yet, still testing it.|
The Why in AudioDIWHY: I needed more ADSR's in my rig. What I have now works but doesn't always give me the super quick snappy decay I'd like.
I saw Rene's Fastest envelope schematic and thought "this will work!!" Note that to me "fastest envelope" sounds postal; the acroymn is FEITW ("feeet-oo"?) is odorous, so I am calling it "fastest ADSR" or FADSRITW or even FDITW "Fastest Decay in the West". Whatever? For funk bass I like snappy filter decay and this will remind me to always tweak it down!!
I will use acronyms going forward, since I love acronyms.
Here it is:
|Eagle BRD and SCM files, wiring diagrams, PDFs used for my take on FADSRITW are available on my website, click here.|
About the module: Rene describes a couple of variations of his design--one with 2.2M A,D,R pots, another with 1M pots. Increase the the cap value if you decrease the pot value. To me, with analog envelope devices, the size of the cap creating the "TAU" (which, my EE brother explained to me, is simply the R*C value used as the heart of the ADSR) matters.
Let's examine this phenomena:
Warning: Math zone ahead. Math? Did I say math? Yes, math. As much as I'd like, I can't do electronics DIY and completely dismiss math. Maybe none of us can?
I was pretty good at math in college (when Madonna ruled the airwaves and dinosaurs roamed the earth) and have since forgotten most all of it, however the math here seems relatively easy: No imaginary numbers! Euler's number (I remembered that!!) Exponents, I remember those as well! like it that way.
OK for ReneADSR decay here's the formula to compute your decay control voltage:
V = S*(e^(-t/RC))
V is the voltage at any given time--what we are after.
e is Eular's number (about 2.718), so, a constant
^ means "raised to a power of what follows", so, e raised to -t divided by R*C
-t is (time * -1).
RC is the resistance * capacitance. That's TAU, baby!
S is the voltage at time = 0
If you plug this into a graphing program like this very cool one you get beautiful curves:
You take that voltage changing over time, and plug it into an appropriately designed VCA or VCF (such as this one, Matohiko Takeda's "Farm VCA") And: Aaaahhhh! The classic Moog/Roland analog synth sound awaits! That's what I am talking about!
I don't know about you, but a good sounding ADSR > VCF curve makes me very happy indeed.
Slight aside: TAU is a Greek Letter and looks like the PI symbol that is missing a leg or pi cut in half:
It means something different in mathematics, or biology, or astrophysics, or whatever; ditch the RC crapola if you're not a physicist? Tau means way different things to different scientists! This confused the hell out of me for a bit. You learn something every day eh?
OK back to it: from the equation above, it shouldn't matter if R gets big as long as C gets small right? Within reason perhaps. That's basic math. But again, that's not how it sounds to me. So what sounds best, really?
Guess we'll find out.
I built my first FDITW using 2.2M pots I found on Ebay (linear taper). 2.2M pots are not at all easy to find, but I found 'em, they arrived via eBay from China and 5 minutes later were soldered into the prototype. Yep! Worked first time!
|Honking big 2M2 pot. The US dime to left, for nonUSAers playing along at home, is approx. 17.9mm in diameter.|
|obligatory on the bench shot.|
Can't find the pots? In an ElectroMusic forum post, DIY mensch donpachi lays down a cool trick for getting 2M out of a dual gang 1M audio taper pot:
I put this on the bench, and it works, but, if there is a +/- 20% error on each pot you might have -40% error overall, giving you a < 2M pot not 2M, so choose your pots accordingly. I dug some 1M dual gang audio tapers out of my junk box and pachi'd them in, replacing the linear taper honkers. To me, the FADSRITW sounds more musical with audio taper pots for A, D and R. I also jammed in a switch to select 2.2uF and 10uF to switch-a-tau. Overall another very fun build. You can get the Eagle stuff, etc. here.
One more tid-bit: For some reason, I got the circuit to work w/ a standard 555 IC, but not a CMOS 7555. No idea why. I will build more of these and see if I can track that one down.
Going forward: I went online and bought some 1M audio taper pots from Small Bear. Waiting for those as I write this post. I will build another FASDRITW with 1M, 100 ohm resistors vs. the 220's and maybe some other TAU-values (taulues?). I'll also post some sound samples. But no, no scope snaps. My eyes always confuse matters like these. The question: What sounds best, really? I figure the different RC combos will sound exactly the same but who knows. Until then, DBTF. See ya.